Cutting Tenons

I was just dumping my digital camera getting ready for summer vacation and realised I had some pics of the tenons being sawn for the door project. I’m using my 14″ Rip saw and my 12″ carcass both by Lie Nielsen. Here is some of the progress.

To begin a nice deep scribe line with my favourite marking gauge establishes the tenons width; in this case they’re all 5/8″ thick, 3″ deep and the rails being cut here are just under 7″ wide. The Quarter Sawn White Oak is hard and unforgiving so make sure you have sharp tools when working this kind of wood. I’ll go back and forth over the pieces to get these lines as deep as the small cutter on the gauge will allow. The base lines are all established with my engineers square off of one reference edge and then one reference surface.

I begin each cut with a small kerf at the far side of the piece and then slowly establish the straight line across the piece using the back heel of my saw plate. I can bear down and get a nice deep kerf established with this method of using the heel of the saw where the teeth remain the sharpest. Once the kerf is adequate I begin the sawing; I saw down until my back saw just about bottoms out and then I’ll rotate the work piece in my tail vise and continue on from this opposite side.

You’ll notice in the video below I’ll use my Ryoba to finish off the cut to the required depth. From here I get out my miter hook and another bench hook to support the Oak and cross cut to the shoulder line. Again I’ll slowly begin the kerf using the heel of my saw plate and work my way down into the cut. Finish sawing with the work piece back in the tail vise and the Japanese pull saw to complete.

I’ll do all of the rails and moulions for the entire door before I mark the pieces to saw the haunches in the tenons. In the shot above you can see the first haunches are cut in the small moulion. It’s one slow step at a time in the Unplugged Woodshop. Enjoy the process and try to split these lay out lines. The video below will show the procedure…as always, I was spinning some vinyl…Neil Young’s, ‘After the Gold Rush’ one of his best and still one of my favourites. To get a good idea of the time line to complete this one cut you may notice by the end of the job the record needed to be turned over! Ahh the joys of vinyl. Cheers!

As always, you’ll have to jump over to my other blog site to view the video.

www.tomfidgen.blogspot.com

aka ~ Bad Axe Tool works

Here’s another quick update from Mark at Technoprimitives. He recently sent me some new pics and an update on his back saws. I’ve been lucky to be able to correspond with him over this past year; to watch as he gears up to launch a new business is an exciting thing for sure. From the initial ideas of his logo and etchings to the spectacular medallions and environmentally friendly packaging I wonder what it takes to make this kind of leap of faith into a market that is really a niche to most. I’ve often thought about how Tom Lie Nielsen must have felt 25 years ago, when he first left the security of a day job to begin his own dream…a boat load of courage and a whole lotta love besides the sheer talent it takes to manufacture a top quality hand tool. Then to turn this ideas into a reality, a flourishing business-especially through this past year of economic uncertainties. If Marks saws are anything like the magic he puts back into the vintage hand saws he’s been refurbishing these past few years then I really don’t think he’ll have any problems. Maybe I’ll be blogging about him and all of his success with Bad Axe Tool Works in 25 years from now!
Stay tuned…

Saws, Bents and Benches

I recently had a question about the specs on the rip saw I was using in the Moulding plane/Miter blog from a few days ago. Instead of answering in the comment section I thought I’d do it here.
I have a few old Rip saws I’ve acquired through yard sales and flea markets as well as a new Pax from England. I barely touch the Pax except for soft, green wood outside of my shop…kind of the weekend work, helping out the brother-in-law build a fence or deck stuff. The particular saw in question is the one pictured above; the medallion says Corporate Mark Kangaroo and the plate has Rob Sorby Sheffield punched into it.
It’s 28″ long and filed at 6 tpi. (teeth per inch) I sent it down to Mark at Technoprimitives and he over hauled it last year. Needless to say he did an amazing job and it became my daily user.

It’s the main saw I reach for except when ripping stock in the 1/2″ range. I have another old Disston that has a 24″ saw plate and is filed at 10 tpi. Between these two that usually takes care of my ripping needs but I’m very interested in the new Lie Nielsen panel saws. I have a few other old Rip saws as well but they’re in need of some work. When ripping wood, to further answer the question asked I generally use my saw bench. This is the design by Chris Schwarz published in Woodworking Magazine a few years back. It’s a nice design and a perfect height but I find with the two angled legs I sometimes hit the end of the saw into the lower stretcher…I’ve since designed my own saw bench and will share it with you here in a future post. For small stock I usually just fore go the saw bench and use my tail vise for most of my rip cuts. My bench is low enough that I never seem to have an issue with this method. I’ll sometimes hold the piece in the tail vise and use a hold fast as well on my bench top to keep the work piece stable. I also have a couple of ’shop bents’ as I call them. Basically they’re saw horses that are the same overall dimension as the end profile of my work bench. I’ll use these from time to time when ripping the edge of real large work but this is pretty rare in my shop.
The plans for these will be in my book so I better not put them here…my editor may whack me across the knuckles with a yard stick!
Ripping wood by hand is probably one of the most intimidating things for people considering a hand tool only work shop; it’s time and labor intensive but once you get your head around it it quickly becomes second nature. I clearly remember thinking back when I was first considering a shop with no power tools and the idea of ripping all of the wood for a piece of furniture scared the hell out of me! That said, it’s been a year of hand saws and wood shavings and I don’t even think about it now…assembling a cut list and grab the saw. It actually doesn’t take that long either-another mis-conception I had.

So for anyone starting down this road I’ll recommend a full size panel saw in the 28″ ball park with a low tooth count for thick stock and then a smaller panel saw with a finer tooth for lighter work.
The saw bench mentioned from Woodworking Magazine is a great design and I’d recommend it to anyone but for me and my body type it wasn’t a perfect fit. Try ripping along the workbench too, this is my preferred method but again to each his own…what ever feels comfortable is always the best way to go.
Cheers!

Reduce, Reuse and Recycle

As a woodworker-day in and day out, working with a medium that is truly all things living, I have a hard time not thinking about our planet, our forests and our environment. Not to get all ‘Al Gore’ on you- but global warming, green house gases and my own carbon footprint…we’ve all heard the arguments and hopefully we’re all doing our share to help. That said I just received a letter from Mark at Technoprimitives describing how he’s doing his own part. Bad Axe Tool works is his new saw manufacturing company and I thought (or hoped) that some of you out there may be interested to hear about his choices for packaging his new hand saws. This is a blog link from a company called Salazar packaging out of Chicago, they specialize in 100% recycled products. He’s also working with another company that manufacturers a void fill/blocking/cushioning product called green cell foam to safely and soundly pack his saws- which by the way should be shipping next week!
On this note, I try my best to use reclaimed lumber whenever I can but when buying from a mill it’s up to you as a woodworker to ask if the wood products you’re using are sustainably harvested. Every little bit counts right?
Here is the blog: Salazar Packaging
Cheers!

TOOLWORKS

A teaser for all of the Galoots out there patiently waiting for the Bad Axe Tool Works hand saws to become available…we’re getting closer!
Stay tuned…

A New Hand Saw from the Dovetail Master Himself

Rob Cosman is a well known Canadian ‘hand tool coach’ offering DVD’s and books on wood working for the past 10 years or more. When it comes to sawing dovetails he’s absolutely incredible. I’ve watched pretty much all of his videos and can honestly say they’ve helped me a great deal along my own hand sawing journey. I would strongly recommend them to any worker at any stage. I’m very happy to hear Rob is offering a dovetail saw on his website. It seems to have some interesting features and I’ll be curious to hear what people have to say about it. For starters, it has a heavy brass back that Rob says is almost twice the weight of a standard dovetail saw and is much better suited to “vibration free sawing“. Second it comes with a 22ppi for the first 2″ of blade and then a more standard 15 ppi. This fine tooth will make starting cuts much easier for beginners. Another plus, the saw plate at 10″ is an inch longer than most dovetails saws on the market. Well, without trying one before purchasing one, (which you already know from my last blog I don’t really enjoy doing all that much), I can only go by what I see and what I read. Again, I’ll be hoping to hear from anyone that gets a chance to use it.
Lastly, on this point of ‘Trying a tool before Buying a tool…‘ The description of the saws and the pictures on the website are all I have to go off of so with that I say this: These new resin saw handles are scaring the hell out of me! I know Rob said he went with the balance and durability in this “resin” composite handle, but from the picture on the website it looks like he had a few old bathroom counter tops he decided to recycle. I’m sure they feel great in hand and as Rob mentions are water-proof (for all of those times I’m cutting dovetails back home in the fresh Atlantic surf)
Maybe I’m a wood snob or am completely naive to this new technology of resin in handsaws, but for me a saw needs to have a wooden handle. Now just so everyone doesn’t think I’m ‘Rob bashing’ or anything I’ll also mention the new Veritas DT saw…they’re a little bit on the creepy side too. I’m well aware that a hand tool doesn’t have to look great to be great but it sure is nice when they do! Theres a truck load of hand tool manufacturers making sculpture like tools that perform as well as they look.
Robs new saws also come with a custom wooden box which I like. The idea is nice but I think it would be even nicer if the customer had the option of solely purchasing the saw without it; I’d be curious to see the price difference. Maybe I should take my own advice and see about trying one out. I’m sure he’ll be at the wood show next year with some of them. I’ll look forward to it.
With that, knowing Rob Cosman, and being a fan of his work for years, these things will probably eat dovetails for breakfast-but brother please…from one East Coaster to another…those handles?

A Division of TechnoPrimitives, LLC

If you’ve visited this site before then you’re already well aware of Mark Harrell, better known as- Technoprimitives.com
I first heard of Mark last year and soon after sent him a nest of old saws needing to be sharpened and restored…my story like so many others was that of awe. The saws were returned in a professional manner, better than I could have imagined. Mark and I then corresponded through the winter and more importantly became friends. Mark is about as interesting a person you’ll ever get to know, which you likely will when you do business with him-that’s the type of person he is, someone who loves what he’s doing and is doing it very, very well.
A published author, retired Army officer, recently redeployed from Afghanistan, as well as a hand tool enthusiast, with special emphasis on getting your old saws fully restored. Oh yeah, did I mention he’s also available for Renewable Energy Systems and Green Home Consultation! Seriously.

Fast forward a few months and we’ll be talking about Mark Harrell in another new light, Bad Axe Tool Works, the guy who manufactures incredible back saws down in La Crosse, Wisconsin. I’ve been biting my tongue on this information for the past few months and am happy to finally say that Bad Axe Tool Works is finally a reality.
Finely crafted back saws offered in a larger-scale saw plate than what is currently in most markets. Here are some specs for you to think about:

· Premium-grade Swedish spring steel, .025” thick, with 4” under the back for the
16” saw and 4.5” under the back for the 18” saw.

· Standard filing: 10 ppi rip for the 18” saw or 11 ppi x-cut; and 11 ppi rip for the 16” saw or 12 ppi x-cut; custom filing available at no additional charge per customer request (I requested a finer tooth count, so Mark has increased the tooth count by one for each of my custom saws)

· Cherry handles with a natural finish

· Brass fasteners with a 13/16” diameter sawnut of the deep-dish variety

· Blued steel back

Does this sound as good to you as it does to me? I’m looking forward to getting them in my hands in June and will fill you in on all of the details here…if you’d like to get more information or perhaps place an early order, (before the waiting lists start to pile up) contact Mark directly.

Cheers!

Careful what you wish for ?

In my wood shop using only hand tools to build furniture, back saws are without a doubt one of the most important and most frequently used tool than any other outside of perhaps hand planes. Today we have the luxury of purchasing pre-dimensioned, quality lumber for our projects making my full size panel saws second in most cases. I still have to spend the time to cross-cut and rip stock, but the backsaws are where the real joinery happens.
I use my Lie Nielsen saws for most of my work but also have a couple of nice reconditioned antiques. One of these vintage gems is an old ‘R.H. Davis Co. and was given ‘the works’ by Mark at Technoprimitives, it’s a great saw and a real pleasure to use.
Over this past year I’ve designed and manufactured thirteen pieces of furniture in my small workspace and through this hectic schedule realised some limitations in my current hand saw arsenal. For example, when cutting dovetails in carcass work I like to use the method of clamping two surface pieces of the stock together and cut the tails simultaneously. When dealing with stock 3/4″ or better in thickness, I’ve often found myself wishing my Lie Nielsen dovetail saw had a longer plate. I absolutely love this saw for general dovetail work like drawers and single board thickness sawing-but dealing with 1 1/2″ to 1 3/4″ material shows limitations. For this reason I’ve been speaking to a couple of hand saw manufacturers and would like to develop a dovetail saw that has a longer saw plate.
I think most people associate a longer saw plate with less TPI (teeth per inch) but on the contrary, the design I think would suite my work best would actually be a finer tooth pattern. The Lie Nielsen comes standard with a 15 tpi or for easier kerf starting they now offer a Progressive Pitch Dovetail Saw which runs from 16 tpi at the tip down to 9 tpi at the handle position. I haven’t yet tried this model but have heard great things about it.
The dovetail saw I’m thinking about would have at least a 10″ saw plate with a slightly finer tooth count, say 16 tpi over the length. The progressive pitch would be fine if I can convince anyone to build one for me! With this size plate I began to worry that the extra length would mean of course extra steel or brass back in turn making the saw heavier. Not a plus when cutting dovetails in my eyes…or hands. I’m not sure how this will play out but I have a couple of ideas in mind; one being a kind of hybrid mix of dovetail saw with No. 9 half back saw plate. This would essentially make the plate the desired length without the extra weight of the full length back.
I’m still in the developing stages of this and need to work more on it…any comments or suggestions are always welcome!
So that’s my ‘dream’ dovetail saw but unfortunately I’d also like a larger scale back saw for cross cutting long miters. I’ve seen pictures of the really large plated back saws used in miter boxes…Roy Underhill is famous for that one, but would like something in the 16″ range. Anyhow, the same thing would apply, a longer saw plate with a finer tooth pattern. For this one I wouldn’t mind the extra heft so I think the back would run full length.

Now here’s the cool/freaky/strange and then cool again-part in all of this:
Last weekend I stumbled over an add in the local buy and sell…it simply read 2 Antique back saws for sale- $15.00 and $20.00.
At that price is was worth the gasoline to drive across town to see them. A friendly gentleman greeted me with the two saws saying they had been sitting in his cottage for years.
Well when I first saw him hold up these two saws I was a little bit like…
“O.k. where’s the hidden camera.?”
I took them home and simply gave them a light cleaning with metal polish and fine steel wool to remove a bit of the surface dirt and small amounts of rust that had collected on them; not more than 10 minutes on each and they were shining like new dimes. The handles needed only a fresh wipe of oil and I’ll re-sharpen them as soon as I can…

So now, here’s the hook, one saw is a closed handle, 10″ back saw with a 1 1/2″ depth of cut made by Disston & Sons the better part of 100 years ago. It does have a small crack in the handle but doesn’t seem to interfere with holding it…nothing a bit of glue won’t fix.
The other has a 16″ plate with 3 1/2″ depth filed cross cut at 14 tpi. It’s by Shurley & Dietrich, a fine Canadian saw manufacturer from years ago. Oh yeah, the little carcass saw, which The Disstonian Institute mentions: “While not marketed as such, the 8 and 10 inch saws make respectable dovetail saws when filed with 14-point rip teeth.” is indeed filed at 14 tpi-Rip tooth.
While not ‘exactly‘ the saws I’d been dreaming about these past few months, (cutting a couple thousand dovetails will do that to you) they are an incredible find. A couple of pieces of history to inspire me, assist me while I’m working wood and educate me in designing a couple of new backsaws someday…Careful what you wish for? I’ll never get them designed now!

Cheers!

You Won’t be Disappointed…

What more can be said. I recently shipped off four old ‘beaters’ to Mark Harrell of TechnoPrimitives.com. There Mark will clean, sharpen and over-haul any old hand saw you may have. The four I sent were your typical garage sale variety, old worn-out, dull and bent.With,in some cases, 50 years of rust and dirt caked on. Mark was very quick and professional to get back to me with a diagnostic of the issues needing to be addressed and a quote to cover the repairs. Another fast turn around and here they are back in my hands. I can’t believe they’re the same saws I shipped him ‘nor can I believe it took me so long to send them in the first place!
A full size rip saw, a smaller scale cross cut and a second 20″ Rip. The fourth unit I sent was beyond repair but the three that came back perform better than the new panel saws I’ve purchased over the last two years…I won’t mention any names but did Blog about replacing the handles on them! So with that I strongly recommend that you send that old nest of saws you’ve been looking at up there on top of the tool cabinet under the fine layer of dust, you won’t be disappointed.
And seeing as I never did hear back from the Wenzloff guys after a couple of e-mail inquiries and watching their waiting list run from 16 weeks to 24 to 40 to…
Well you get the picture; fellas you can take me off of your list…my hand saw problems are over!
Cheers.

New Hand Saws

I ordered a couple of new hand saws a few weeks ago from Tools for Working Wood, a great company with a nice web site. I’ve ordered a few items in the past and have never had an issue, professional across the board. Since relocating here in Toronto, I’ve been using only hand tools for my work. Great. No worries, until I needed to cut a curve in the base of a small set of night stands I was working on. Oh-how I longed for my band saw, back in my old shop on the coast. It would certainly make quick work of this small project…So what did I do? I ordered the Gramercy Tools 12″ Bow Saw; a sweet little saw, made in the USA. “Ah, just the thought of it brings a tear to my glass eye…”
So while I’m at it I decided I also needed another Rip saw. Seeing as my two old antiques are just that, old antiques, I felt it to be a just purchase. ( I’m actually on the waiting list at Wenzloff & Sons for a custom Cross-Cut and Rip saw; I think they’ll be ready sometime in the year 2053 but that’s a whole other story. )
So in my despair to get a new rip saw I ordered the 28″ Pax saw from TFWW. So two saws arrived and I tear into them. If you read my earlier blog on making new tool handles you’ll know that I don’t particularly care for the Pax saw handles. I find them large for my hand and to be frank, rather unattractive. So I take out the Rip saw and put it aside to get into the Bow saw. A nice little box within it a well made hand tool, nicely wrapped up in green tissue it was like someone had given me a Christmas present. All it needed was a cute little bow on top. So here I am admiring my new saws and decide the first thing in order, to make a new handle for the Pax…and what better tool to use to cut out the shape? Yup, the bow saw.

Cutting out the Shape

So to make a new handle I selected my wood, walnut in this case, and traced the handle from my old Disston. I did a quick read through the instruction booklet that came with the bow saw and after tightening the tension on the blade (which was loosened for shipping) I went at it. What happened next in my mind was really incredible; this fine little saw cut so fast, clean and effortless I wondered why it took me so long to ever get one. Beautifully balanced, no chatter or binding, just gentle strokes through the 4/4 walnut. The entire saw handle took no more than 10 minutes at most. So now here I am, a familiar place where I know the process. I took out my brace and 1″ auger bit to complete the curves of the handle. No problems so far. Some filing and shaping, a little sanding and carving, voila! Done except to cut the kerf and drill the screw holes…so again, I turn my attention to the Pax. At this stage I think back when I was making a new handle for my Pax cross cut saw.I simple took the handle, not at all unlike this one, and unscrewed the Pax handle, removed it, lined up the two and with my awl, marked the screw holes…easy right?

Oh Pax…what have you done?

So just to recap and get things clear in my own mind, I’m standing there with my newly made walnut handle, I take hold of my screwdriver and gently start to back out the brass screws. At this point I notice the Medallion on the side of the Pax handle is sitting proud…no big deal I thought, must be something underneath…I’ll clean it up when I remove the handle. So first screw, second screw; down through to five all of the screws come out. I squeeze the blade of the saw into my shoulder vise and make my first attempt to remove the handle. No luck..? I get a little more aggressive and try the whole wiggle-waggle-back-and forth approach…still nothing, not even a squeak. I place a wood block on the heel of the blade and gently at first try tapping to loosen the handle. O.k. at this point I’m starting to realise something is not right. Did they glue it on? No, couldn’t be. That would be just plain ignorant. Some more prying, some hitting and then on to some down home whacking! Come on, this should come off…what if I just wanted to do a quick tune up, cleaning or sharpening? Saw handles are meant to be relatively easy to remove, no?
Then it happens, you know the blinding white light, ears start ringing, sweaty palms…I grab the biggest, meanest, ugliest chisel my tool box had to offer and split this thing open like a fresh brook trout in August. I didn’t like it in the first place, but admittedly didn’t want to destroy it either. So there I am, cracking and splintering the shiny new handle off of my nice new Pax rip saw…
(that’s Pax right? I did mention it was a Pax right?)
So like Indiana Jones discovering artifacts under the sands I see the problem. It seems this saw, during manufacturing must have assembled the wooden handle onto the blade and then drilled through the whole lot with a dull bit. The metal burned and charred through creating a kind of sleeve that mated into the opposite side of the wood.!@$%^&*(!!!”":{
If you look closely at the pics you can see what I mean…bad, shotty workman ship….that’s just the way it is. Now I have to get out some files and flatten out the dimples of burnt metal left behind to irritate me to no end. (At least this was how I felt at the time.)
All calm and clean now, me and the saw that is, ready to trace the screw holes onto my new handle, drill them out and install the screws. No worries, at least the metal is un-damaged and seems to be well sharpened and straight. I breeze through these steps and give the handle a quick coat of oil. I didn’t spend too much time on the sanding this time due to the fact that I have work to do! Boards to rip and kids to feed…so perhaps a little rough I’ll get to it sometime in the future when I don’t have four orders to finish. So here I go, putting things together, first screw, second screw…then I get to the medallion; I had forgotten about the way it had been sitting on the original handle. hmmmm…..crooked as a cats…again, the light starts to come back….I’m having an incredible hulk moment and want to throw the whole thing into a dumpster somewhere. How could this happen? The shiny little medallion, like a signature, carefully placed into the finished saw to say
” made with pride by…” I just don’t get it at all. What happened in the two years between saws? My cross cut I purchased from Lee Valley Tools seemed like a nicely made hand tool, other than the handle simply didn’t suit my hand…two years later, this poorly made piece of…I digress. I put the handle on and went to work.
It cuts pretty good and my new handle is comfortable. I left the crooked medallion sitting proud of the side to remind me to call Mike Wenzloff again…You really do get what you pay for.
PS.
Hey Schwarz, I guess you’re having an ‘I told you so’ moment right now…Cheers!