Hollows and Rounds

My new hollows and rounds arrived on Friday from Philly Planes in England, right on schedule as Phil Edwards told me. They looked and smelled great(new tools always smell so good), right out of the box all packaged up safely making the trip across the pond. He threw in a nice Philly Planes T-Shirt as well! A nice touch indeed…This morning I set aside a few hours and finally made some shavings and I’m very happy to report that they’re great! Worth every cent which I should note wasn’t out of touch by any means for some custom made hand planes. They have a nice, traditional shape, comfortable to hold and a nice light weight; Phil had mentioned some additional honing may be necessary but not before they’re put to work awhile. He did a great job and I will recommend them to anyone interested in wooden bodied hand planes.
As you know if you’re a frequent reader here I have a new project I’m starting this week. I’m building a solid exterior wooden door for a heritage property here in Toronto and this is what the planes were specifically purchased for. Wanting to take the planes for a test drive I decided to work on a sample section of one of the mouldings on the door; this will be the trim around the panels and I’ll need about twenty running feet of this particular profile. I cut a scrap of poplar I had about 28″ long and squared it up to begin. The following process represents a brief description of the steps in ’sticking’ traditional mouldings.

To begin the moulding I first had to dimension the stock to size and this started with ripping it to width followed with some jointing with my 5 1/2 Bench plane. With the stock straight and square I’ll lay out the moulding profile at each end and figure out my rabbet and dado configurations. Funny when sticking mouldings, we think of the hollows and rounds first and foremost but the reality is that most of the bulk of the material will be removed with a rabbet and plough plane. The hollows and rounds follow to the create the curves, slopes and fair out the sharp edges left behind by the first special purpose planes.

The rabbet and plough plane I’m using are Veritas with my Lie Nielsen medium shoulder plane to clean up the inside corners. I used my right handed Lie Nielsen as well to put the small rabbet on the opposite side of the profile, this was a luxury having the right handed plane to deal with the grain direction. The curves of the moulding is squared off with a series of rabbets determining each stepped area. This process continues on until all that is left is a small dado and then again with my shoulder plane the edges are beveled. This was a tip I got while watching Don McConnell’s moulding making DVD; he states the you should always relieve any sharp edges before going to the moulding planes to help preserve the shape of the hollows and rounds. Actually, that tip as well as this entire process was demonstrated quite clearly in Dons excellent video- I recommend anyone planning on doing this kind of work watching it.

The moulding planes are a real pleasure to use, with a nice fine shaving it’s very therapeutic work…this is a good thing considering the amount of moulding I’ll have to make for this door project! The finish left behind from the hollows is quite incredible, a smooth burnished feel that doesn’t come across in photographs but really is something to behold. The entire process up to this point was probably no more than an hour for this piece just over two feet long.

With the profile complete I’ll put it aside to get ready to cut some miters, this will be another important stage of the door project. Lots of mouldings with twice the miters. I found a great old Stanley miter hook at a yard sale last year for $15.00- a sweet deal for this appliance it needed a little work but otherwise was in real good shape.

These miter cuts are purely for practice so lengths are a non-issue. This being only a sample the miter will really show me how even my profile is along its length. From here it’s to the shooting board to clean up the saw cut and I can finally see how it looks.

I’m using my new shooting board with my Lie Nielsen NO. 9 for this final step. I still didn’t make a 45 degree fence for this new board so I used the block portion of my combination square…this worked out well and it’s time to check the final fit.

I’m happy with this and am looking forward to getting into some quarter sawn White Oak later this week.
Stay tuned.

Philly Planes

Just got another update from Phil Edwards regarding my hollows and rounds…they’re complete and should be in my grubby little hands by the end of next week. I love it when manufacturers give updates of their work while it’s being done, it makes parting with my hard earned cash that much easier! Phil has been extremely professional and a pleasure doing business with; if his planes are half as good as his customer service then I’ll be a happy woodworker.
I’ll let you know when they arrive.
Cheers!

Hollows, Rounds and Non-Tapered Irons…

Last week I blogged about some new hollows and rounds I ordered from Phil Edwards in England. He makes beautiful wooden bodied hand planes in Broadstone, Dorset and is sending me pics as they’re coming along, a nice touch when ordering custom tools.
After posting the article one reader commented that he had heard Phil didn’t use ‘tapered irons’ in his planes and that this could be a difficulty while adjusting/removing the blade. I didn’t want to speculate so I asked the plane maker himself…here is what he said:
I know that some Folks say that only tapered irons will do, but from experience I have found this to be incorrect…The secret to a wooden plane that is easy to adjust and keeps it setting is a well fitting wedge – if the wedge beds correctly then you don’t need to use excessive force to lock it in place. This also means it is easy to adjust and easy to release the wedge…Traditionally, irons were made by forge welding a small piece of high carbon steel (the cutting edge) to a piece of iron. This section of iron was then hammered and teased out to make the iron longer – this gave the tapered effect. As time went by tool steel became less expensive and the whole blade was made from it, not just the first inch or two, But they still taper ground the irons. I believe they did this because plane makers were used to making planes with the tapered irons, and changing to a parallel iron meant making new jigs at slightly different angles for the layout and making of their planes…Sometimes you have try things out – just because everyone does it this way doesn’t mean its correct!

It sounds to me like Phil has done his homework and considering he’s made over 200 wooden planes I won’t question him. I should have the planes in the next few weeks so I’ll keep you posted.
Cheers!

Fine Wooden Planes made in England

I’m getting geared up to start production of an Exterior Wooden Door for a client here in Toronto. The house is located in the historic neighbourhood of Cabbagetown and is declared a Heritage Property.
The existing door was put on about 25 years ago, so I’m building a replica of the original. It will be made of 8/4 Quarter-Sawn White Oak and to keep it true to the local history when it was originally made a century ago, I’m building it using only hand tools.
The carcass is a straight forward frame and panel design with some interesting moulding details. In order to reproduce these mouldings I’ve ordered four pairs of hollows and rounds from Phil Edwards in Broadstone, Dorset.
Phil is craftsman, musician and clearly a hand tool enthusiast; during his process of manufacturing my planes he’s sent me a photo of the progress. I’m looking forward to getting my hands on them and taking some fine shavings…
Stay tuned.

Hollows and Rounds…Made in China?

Being a user, collector and lover of hand planes I’m always keeping my eye out for rare or unusual styles. When recently surfing around the Japan Woodworker Online Catalogue I discovered some wooden bodied, Hollows and Rounds that are being manufactured in China. China? I thought…Why not, every thing else is made there so I decided to take a closer look. I’ve always wanted a nice old set of hollows and rounds; I’ve searched e-Bay, online and local antique tool dealers but always found that most you come across are over priced old planes that you’ll need to spend a lot of time refurbishing to get them back to a user friendly state or are simply nice old tools for someone to put on a shelf and look at. I wanted something I could use and hopefully not have to spend a small fortune on.
After reading the description and studying the photos of these planes I decided to order a few select sizes. They’re manufactured in China and arrived well-packaged in cardboard boxes with a borg logo on the side. (no Trek-ie affiliation as far as I could tell)

The description on the Japan Woodworker web-site said the planes have been manufactured in and around Hong Kong for the past 20 years by Mujingfang. They decided to begin producing these high quality Chinese Style Planes seeing that previously, it was a cottage industry with little or no quality control. Furniture makers in and around Hong Kong use hollowing and rounding planes to create moldings and for shaping pieces of furniture. The plane bodies are hand made from well aged Rosewood and are nicely contoured to fit the hand.
They are 6-1/4″ long and width varies according to size. The blades are high carbon steel and although needed honing and sharpening on arrival, the extremely reasonable price made it worth my while. They are sold as a set of one hollowing and one rounding plane for each width. I went with the 1/4″, 1/2″, 1″ and 1 1/4″ widths. After using these planes for the past six months I’m very pleased with the quality and performance; as for the very-affordable prices all I can say is…Resistance is futile.